Men’s Fashion Week is frequently a testing ground for new concepts, as it is where they are tried before the big-time womenswear events. With the growing popularity of menswear, men’s collections have become a leading indicator of where fashion is headed. But where is fashion headed after two years of the epidemic, limited travel, smaller runway shows, and large internet audiences? And who will be in charge of setting the agenda?
Is it because of celebrities? (Greetings, Julie!) Is it the throngs of people gathered in the hundreds outside the concerts to photograph the content? Is it those in the room who are privy to the actual fashion experience, or those who have never been to a fashion show but are reacting instantly on social media? Is it the designers themselves, or is it something else entirely?
These changing tides are being addressed in this season’s collections. Machine Gun was one of the many high-wattage guests on the catwalk. Prada cast everyone from Kyle MacLachlan and Jeff Goldblum to Ashton Saunders and Asa Butterfield, with Kelly opening Dolce & Gabbana. Marc Jacobs dressed LVMH special award winner KidSuper, while Olivier Theyskens dressed Y/Project. Other presentations, such as Louis Vuitton, welcomed observers outdoors, with risers made up for guests to witness Naomi Campbell and J Balvin pay tribute to Virgil Abloh’s legacy. Doublet and Maison Mihara Yasuhiro both held street displays in Tokyo, putting an end to fashion’s decades-long invite-only mindset.
When it came to fashion, the chaotic magpie appearance of Gen Z style, as well as a gay attitude, ruled many runways. Menswear has never looked so queer, as Nicole Phelps and GQ’s Rachel Tashjian noticed in our Talking Fashion email, with softly curved suiting, cutouts, and body-skimming garments. Will women’s clothing catch up?
When it comes to menswear trends, the best ideas don’t stick together. Loewe’s anti-meta ready-to-wear and Prada’s ageless and genderless armor jackets are examples. The massive shearlings at Alyx and 4SDesigns, as well as the edgy looks at GmbH and Fendi, are sure to be popular. The fashion audience is evolving, and those who evaluate and inspire it must adapt as well. Let’s see what makes it into the women’s fashion season this month.
In review appointments, no less than five designers mentioned Giorgio Armani. His blouson bomber jackets and Raf Simons’ MA-1s have reignited interest in the shape, which is all bubbly and bulbous up top.
Catsuits were the talk of the town a year ago, and second-skin menswear is still popular. Jonathan Anderson scanned models’ bodies for a one-to-one copy of their bodies printed on the white jersey at Loewe. Vetements’ version is coated in dollar notes. Both are effective in conveying information.
The Lowest Rise
For several seasons, Y2K nostalgia dominated fashion for womenswear, and it is now impacting menswear. Low-rise, loose jeans with exposed boxers were seen at Dior Men, Louis Vuitton, and Allied-Martinez, however, Y/dip-front Project’s pants may be the most exposing.
The Nipped Waist
Dries Van Noten
This season, trending men’s fashion 2022 tailoring has taken on a new, more feminine stance, with wrapped lapels at GmbH and portrait necklines at Fendi. Accessorize with pearls and fake fur.
A furry piece of outerwear is always in vogue, and a new crop of oversized shearlings from Sacai, Rick Owens, and Hermès will be seductive when the winter weather returns later this year.
The Total Look
With their matching denim outfits at the Kenzo presentation, Ye and Julia Fox seemed weirdly predictive.
This season, Heron Preston, Bianca Saunders, and, of course, Nigo at Kenzo reinvented total-denim ensembles on the runway.
What are the most attractive approaches?
Louis Vuitton’s denim monogram brocade adorned with flowers and Undercover’s laser-etched Psycho images on the back of coats.
Slim, ’40s-meets-’70s suiting with a preppy, Japanese flavor showed in a variety of collections. Although Kenzo owns the aesthetic, it has been influencing menswear developments at Rhude and Erdem for seasons. Don’t be afraid to experiment with tartans—just don’t forget the tie.
Prada’s cinched trench has the season’s broadest, boldest shoulders, but lots of other designers are also using a supersized coat as a platform. Colorful alternatives are available from Casablanca, Dolce & Gabbana, and L.V., while traditional black is provided by Zegna.
The balaclava isn’t going away anytime soon, but huge, long scarves are also popular right now. Consider XL versions by Dries Van Noten or Hed Mayner, or a hand-crocheted piece by Kiko Kostadinov.
The LOL of It All
Why should fashion be any different? Jonathan Anderson embraced absurdity and oddity at both JW Anderson and Loewe, while a youthful air of naivety was also obvious at Comme des Garçons Homme Plus and Moschino. Vetements’ tongue-in-cheek sarcasm, which characterized the brand in its early days, seems appropriate again.